dimanche 7 juillet 2019

Donaldson, Emmons, Steward 7/1

This was my second trip to the Seward range after going to Seymour in June. At 5:20, I was second to sign the register. I was happy that the preceding hiker had drawn spiderweb duty (but later found out, when our path crossed, that he was doing a loop from the North first). It was a beautiful day and I confidently headed to the Calkins Truck trail. Blueberry trail was muddy enough, as I’d already discovered three weeks before.

Morning light on a marsh along the truck trail:


About 90 minutes in, I was already at the Calkins Brook and doing great mentally and physically for what would be my most challenging hike so far.

It had rained a lot over the previous two days, so I wasn’t sure if I’d need to remove my boots to ford the brook, but there was plenty of easy dry-feet options. But said feet would not remain dry for very long.


After the crossing, the path became narrower, but still very easy to follow for an unmarked trail. It is also fairly easy on the feet for a good while. But passing through soaked trees meant I was pretty wet all over – still, it was already starting to be a warm day and I didn’t mind the cool sprinkles. Half-way on the Calkins Brook trail, things started to get muddy but not unmanageably so. Still, between the water coming down from above and the damp soil, it was only a question of time for the water to permeate the leather.

I enjoyed the top of Donaldson at 9am (I remembered that the summit was on a rock at the left side of the trail). There is also a great point of view on the right, just before the summit. There was no question I’d be going to Emmons next. View of Seward from Donaldson (that bump on the right is the "false summit"):


The trail towards Emmons went down a little and reached a wide mud pit.


I thought perhaps I had already reached the col between peaks, but no, I was still near the summit of Donaldson. Continuing on, the path seemed to descend much more than it needed to (the view I had gotten from Seymour had deceptively underrated the depth of this col) and finally began to rise. View of Emmons on the way:


View towards Long Lake:


This part involved a little climbing – but nothing scary with some planning (if it looks dangerous, then there’s another way). After more effort than expected, I reached the top of Emmons. Not much views here, but some nice ones along the way. It’s hard to pinpoint the moment when my feet were entirely wet, but they certainly were at that point. I did carry two extra pairs of socks, but I didn’t see the point of putting them in soaked boots and I didn’t want to stop too long (black flies made sure of that). It wasn’t too uncomfortable, but when I would remove my boots I would notice how much weight that water added.

Going back to the cairn-marked trail junction was uneventful, but I did meet a few hikers all of which were doing the same trio of mountains. Some had slept in a lean-to and came in from the North, one was doing a loop (the first signed hiker) and the others were doing the out-and-back Calkins approach, which convinced me to do the same.


First order of business on the Seward approach involved a 10’ slab just behind the cairn and which looked intimidating but was easily negotiated on the right. The path continued down at a more moderate incline and turned uphill very soon. Here begins the climb of the false summit, which is as tall as Emmons. No views on top of this. And then all that elevation is lost (about 200’, so not that bad) before the true ascent begins – adding 450’ of elevation gain. A couple of places required use of hands, but it was a fun challenge. One particular place has you climbing in a fault (like a “mini trap dike”) and has a really neat perspective. View towards Emmons & Donaldson:


Eventually, there is a nice viewpoint when the slope softens. This is a good stop since the summit has the worst view (actually, none) of the three. Black flies being abundant, I briskly went on to the summit. All three summits have signs, which is nice and not necessarily what I’ve seen from past reports.

Some people have said that you need to climb Donaldson again to head out by Calkins brook. That is not technically true, but it is a bummer to have to go over the false summit again. After the first 0.5mi of Calkins brook trail, the trail became significantly easier on the feet and a relatively quick pace ensued (note: this part is the main advantage v. going down by the North side).

At the brook crossing I filled a bottle of water, not caring to filter it for the moment since (1) I still had a little in my camel pack and (2) bugs were getting very annoying. Up the truck trail, the bug situation worsened. The incline is really not that bad (250’ over a mile), and it’s relatively dry, but now all the black fly and mosquito squadrons caught up. And then deer flies join the party – three times I had to stop and eradicate a particular vicious one lest I become crazy. My plan of listening to music did not pan out. The last 1.4mi on Mudsquitoe trail was not any more fun, but I got to the car in one piece and with surprisingly few bites. A dozen mosquitoes hopped in the car with me but they could not deter me from a great sense of serenity and accomplishment that I was now experiencing.


My hiking app tracked this at 16.9mi (but I think this is slightly exaggerated) for this 12 hour round-trip.


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